Portsmouth |
Why Portsmouth?
Portsmouth has a number of spots of general historic interest as a result of having been Britain's and, before that, England's major naval port.
However, in terms of specific potential interest to Ozzies is Portsmouth's role in being the departure point for Australia's first permanent albeit mostly unwilling non-First Australian mostly white settlers, who also again mostly unwittingly formed the beginning of the white invasion and seizure of the joint we now know as Australia. Their small group of ships, grandly designated a "fleet", and now known to us as "The First Fleet", left Spithead, the primary gathering point for fleets off Portsmouth, England, on 13 May, 1787. Most of them were very, very far from willing emigrants, let alone intentional invaders - the intention came later, although when is the subject of ongoing and unfortunately sometimes highly fiery, often personally vicious "discussion".
However, in terms of specific potential interest to Ozzies is Portsmouth's role in being the departure point for Australia's first permanent albeit mostly unwilling non-First Australian mostly white settlers, who also again mostly unwittingly formed the beginning of the white invasion and seizure of the joint we now know as Australia. Their small group of ships, grandly designated a "fleet", and now known to us as "The First Fleet", left Spithead, the primary gathering point for fleets off Portsmouth, England, on 13 May, 1787. Most of them were very, very far from willing emigrants, let alone intentional invaders - the intention came later, although when is the subject of ongoing and unfortunately sometimes highly fiery, often personally vicious "discussion".
The First Fleet |
On 13 May, 1787, the "fleet" of 11 old, slow ships, including 6 convict ships, 2 naval ships, and 3 supply ships set out for Botany Bay, New South Wales, crowded with prisoners, many already sick and diseased.
The convicts were aged and aged from around 13/14 (John Hudson & Elizabeth Hayward) years old up to around 82 years old (Dorothy Handland, whom Robert Hughes in his book The Fatal Shore claims to have sadly been the first white suicide in Australia, or at least, the first known suicide as little account has been taken of the various folk stranded on the other side of the continent, at least some of whom had good reasons to commit suicide, especially those caught up in the horrific Batavia mutiny). Oddly, it's not known exactly how many convicts were on the First Fleet, but there seem to have been between 750 and 780, of whom around 580-590 were male, and around 180-195 female, some of whom were children. The number differentials possibly relate to the difference between those who set out and those who arrived, as some 44 died on the way, mostly men, but also a few women. There may also be some confusion over the fact some of the convicts were accompanied by 17 or so of their free children, and some female convicts gave birth to 11 surviving children on the way. Also included were some 550 other folk, including a few civilians, a couple of hundred marine guards and their officers, a number of whom were accompanied by their wives and children, and, of course, another few hundred sailors and their officers. Then there were the 18 turkeys, 29 geese, 35 ducks, 122 chooks, 87 chickens, various numbers of kittens & puppies, 4 mares, 2 stallions, 4 cows, 1 bull, 1 bull calf, 44 sheep, 19 goats, 32 pigs, 5 rabbits (yeah, thanks, guys!), Arthur Phillip's greyhounds, and the appalling pseudo-christian Samuel Johnson's cats. Oh, and not forgetting the highly probable hitch-hiking rats (thanks again, guys!). Some of these creatures came from England, and some were picked up on the way. Ummm, what else? Oh, yes, we're referring to real rats,not the all-too-many human rats, at least some of whom weren't among the convicts. And then there were the really tiny freeloaders. The bugs that caused such diseases as various horrid sexually transmitted diseases, influenza, the "common" cold (common in England, not at all common in Australia), possibly tuberculosis, probably mumps and measles, maybe rubella, and on and on. The diseases of supposed civilisation, or, really, closely settled |
and crowded towns and cities.
The First Australian population and their culture were smashed by various of these diseases, but also by smallpox concurrently with the First Fleet's arrival. While still debated, the First Fleet was probably not responsible for this influx as smallpox material recently examined from corpses near the Sydney settlement appears to have emanated from what is now Indonesia, via the fishing contacts from islands north of Australia. Mind you, the whites would almost certainly have brought their own strains of smallpox on later ships. The ships, because of the varied speeds attainable by their rotting hulls, arrived at Botany Bay, New South Wales, across several days from 18 to 20 January, 1788. Phillip even had to swap ships to get to Botany Bay first so he could oversee preparations for the arrival of the rest of the fleet. Phillip quickly figured out the descriptions of the place made by James Cook's expedition 12 years earlier, and especially the spruiking of Cook's bizarre botanist Joseph Banks, were utter rubbish. Fresh water in particular was insufficient. Phillip then set off in a tiny boat, probably along with several unnamed sailors who did all the hard yakka. Luckily for him, albeit destructively for the Eora people who were already there, Phillip found the wonderful stretch of water he named Port Jackson, which Cook had missed. He returned to Botany Bay, and brought the fleet back to what he named Sydney Cove, one of several harbours in Port Jackson. The ships arrived at Sydney Cove on 26 January, 1788, which is variously commemorated as Australia Day and Invasion Day. We note that Phillip happily plastered English names all over the place as though the locals' names were of no importance, which as far as the English and most immigrants since was and is the case. Except, of course, when First Australian names were used by the incomers for several reasons, none of them connected to respect for the First Australians, or as an acknowledgement that someone owned the land before them. That, after all, would be to admit what many of them probably thought - they were stealing someone else's land, and all their justifications were nothing but empty excuses. Excuses many second and later Australians still trot out to excuse their ongoing appalling treatment of First Australians. |
What can't be seen? |
It's worth noting that as far as Portsmouth is concerned, the First Fleet is of little real significance. For centuries, this port has been Britain's major naval base, and as its navy has been a major factor in its history, and especially the commercial, military, and imperial history that the English successfully mould into a sense of superiority, even to those of us of their descent, that these days seems rather tweely pathetic to an outsider.
With this history, there's much to see here that enables the continuation of the English sense of glory. Just a little research will find many of these things. However, while bringing glory, Portsmouth has also been the site of some of modern war's cruelties and savagery. In particular, it was absolutely plastered by the German airforce during World War 2. Thus an extremely huge proportion of the old stuff has been destroyed.
Further, we know next to nothing about the movements of the convicts, crew, and military prior to the fleet leaving, and we know absolutely nothing about Arthur Phillip's movements before the fleet sailed. However, it appears he may have been in London attempting to get the fleet better supplied, only turning up in Portsmouth just prior to takeoff. Perhaps he was pointing out the lack of provision for menstruating women (no, this is very far from a pathetic attempt at humour, it is a fact, and a probable explanation for the theft of ships' officers' shirts from laundering areas operated by convict women on the voyage). The women on one of the ships, the Lady Penhryn, were especially desperate as not only were their menses not provided for, but all their clothes had been left in Portsmouth.
It's unknown where the convicts were held prior to embarkation, but as Portsmouth's prison was much too small, it seems likely they were held in an army camp on the outskirts of the town. Subsequently, they were paraded through Portsmouth, upon which many of the shopkeepers boarded up their shopfronts, either in fear or excitement prior to dashing off to watch this unusual sight.
With this history, there's much to see here that enables the continuation of the English sense of glory. Just a little research will find many of these things. However, while bringing glory, Portsmouth has also been the site of some of modern war's cruelties and savagery. In particular, it was absolutely plastered by the German airforce during World War 2. Thus an extremely huge proportion of the old stuff has been destroyed.
Further, we know next to nothing about the movements of the convicts, crew, and military prior to the fleet leaving, and we know absolutely nothing about Arthur Phillip's movements before the fleet sailed. However, it appears he may have been in London attempting to get the fleet better supplied, only turning up in Portsmouth just prior to takeoff. Perhaps he was pointing out the lack of provision for menstruating women (no, this is very far from a pathetic attempt at humour, it is a fact, and a probable explanation for the theft of ships' officers' shirts from laundering areas operated by convict women on the voyage). The women on one of the ships, the Lady Penhryn, were especially desperate as not only were their menses not provided for, but all their clothes had been left in Portsmouth.
It's unknown where the convicts were held prior to embarkation, but as Portsmouth's prison was much too small, it seems likely they were held in an army camp on the outskirts of the town. Subsequently, they were paraded through Portsmouth, upon which many of the shopkeepers boarded up their shopfronts, either in fear or excitement prior to dashing off to watch this unusual sight.
The "Bonds of Friendship" First Fleet Memorial
To see Robinson's memorial and the sally port, the place to head for is the Corner of Broad Street and White Hart Road, Old Portsmouth. A landmark to keep an eye out for is the Square Tower, not to be mistaken for the Round Tower, which is quite a hike from here, so don't go there in error. Mind you, if the weather's nice (about one day a year in England!) and you're into walking it would be quite a nice walk along what is known as Millennium Promenade, which runs along the sea wall, more-or-less parallel to Broad Street. Whether or not you're into walking, there are several cafes and pubs in this area that could be worth a visit.
For those who over-imbibe in either or both coffee and/or tea and/or booze, Lex has marked a public toilet down below if you're caught short, as his small bladder and his liking for coffee often causes him to be! The sculptor, John Robinson, says the sculpture, titled "Bonds of Friendship", "is a chain with only two links, locked so tightly together it is inseparable, thus able to withstand all the pressures of life." It symbolises both friendship and bonds, perhaps with a side reference to the fact most of the people on that First Fleet were convicts, bonded to the government for anything from 7 years to life, although there wasn't much friendship in those bonds. Robinson says this particular sculpture (there are other versions, including a sibling of Portsmouth's in Sydney) particularly symbolises "the 'Trust' between Nations that forms the 'basis of peace', without which there is little possibility of the survival of the human race. " How very true. Although perhaps not so much during an ashes test cricket match. |
The yellow marker at the bottom shows the location of the First Fleet Memorial.
The purple marker up the top shows the location of the Sirius Memorial, in Sirius Avenue in Gunwharf Quays Shopping Centre. Note: Sirius Ave. is not an official street and is unlikely to be on any street maps or guides. It isn't on Google Maps at the time of writing (17/7/2015).
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Memorial Plaques
Out of sight, on the left of the sally port, is the Roanoke Memorial Plaque, to the people Walter Raleigh led to their mysterious disappearance in North America. Naturally, old Wally wasn't there to disappear with them. It might have been better for him if he had been, considering what happened to him. Not only did he have his head cut off, but his wife is alleged to have carted it around with her for thirty-odd years. The first few must have been a little unpleasant. Although not for Wally, we suspect.
Anyway, this is the next four plaques, three of which are relevant to Aussies:
Anyway, this is the next four plaques, three of which are relevant to Aussies:
- On the left is a memorial to the sailors who died in the Falklands War. I suspect it does not include the 323 young cadets and their officers, not to mention the couple of civilians, who were killed when the British nuclear submarine HMS Conqueror very arguably illegally sank the Argentinean light cruiser General Belgrano (Belgrano was a founding father in the fight for Argentinean independence early in the 19th century). What a total mess war is. But, it managed to get Margaret Thatcher re-elected. I suspect that cause of the war isn't mentioned either!
- Next is a plaque memorialising the bicentennial of the departure of the First Fleet in 1787.
- Next again is a plaque memorialising the brilliant, but desperately unlucky, navigator Matthew Flinders, who led the first expedition to circumnavigate Australia and, a little arguably, came up with the name "Australia".
- And finally, on the right is a plaque memorialising the First Fleet re-enactment, which set sail on 13 May, 1987, arriving in Sydney Harbour on 26 January, 1988, the bicentenary of the First Fleet's arrival. And what a great sight it was, with an accompanying fleet of tall ships. We'll never forget it, as we sat on the shore of the Harbour, enthralled, despite the fact that at least one of us is more than a little equivocal about Australia Day.
What on earth is "Spithead"?
On 13 May, 1787, the First Fleet didn't leave from next to the sally port, but from out in Spithead. In case you're wondering about "Spithead", it's the part of the stretch of water called the "Solent", which separates the English mainland from the Isle of Wight. Spithead is that part of the Solent between Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight, and is the last part at the north before the Solent enters the English Channel.
It's not called "Spithead" because that's where all the sailors had their last spit (slang for "vomit") in the heads (naval for "dunny"), if for no other reason than 18th century sailors didn't have recourse to heads, apart from the shrunken ones they bought in the markets of wherever such appalling things were sold. No, the Spit is a sandbank sticking out from the Hampshire, or Portsmouth, side of the Solent. Spithead is where Portsmouth fleets gathered before setting off into the wide blue yonder. Phillip's little fleet, or at least its pathetic collection of prisoners and their more criminally inclined guards, passed through the sally port over a couple of days before 13 May, clambered onto their homes |
for the next nearly nine months, then sailed from Portsmouth out to Spithead to gather together.
And on 13 May, 1787, one of the world's great land thefts was set in motion when Phillip and his collection of flimsy, barely seaworthy ships set out on the 18th century equivalent of a journey to the moon. |
Nearby Lavatorial Facilities
Unlike 18th century sailors, while there rarely seem to be enough of them and they're always damned hard to find and often more than a little unpleasant to use, there are public toilets available now in Portsmouth (and on most ships!). Oh, it looks like we're suggesting Portsmouth toilets in particular are unpleasant to use. Actually, that was meant as a general comment regarding public dunnies. As we've never been to Portsmouth, we have no knowledge of the pleasantness of Portsmouth public dunnies (!!). And Portsmouth is one of the places we missed on our trip to England.
So, for those of you who, like Lex, are always hunting for a toilet, head back along the wall, away from the Square Tower. It's a relatively short walk to the American Settlers' Monument, a small family group you can just see in the centre of the photie below, with the toilets located on the right, as you can, or probably can't (!), see over the roof of that dark coloured van on the far right of this photie.
So, for those of you who, like Lex, are always hunting for a toilet, head back along the wall, away from the Square Tower. It's a relatively short walk to the American Settlers' Monument, a small family group you can just see in the centre of the photie below, with the toilets located on the right, as you can, or probably can't (!), see over the roof of that dark coloured van on the far right of this photie.
The HMS Sirius Memorial
There is a wonderful little memorial to HMS Sirius, Arthur Phillip's flagship for all but the last couple of days before landing at Botany Bay. Those last days he was on HMS Supply, which was a faster ship than the Sirius, and he was trying to get to Botany Bay in time to prepare a camp for the following people. Unfortunately, not only was Botany Bay a rubbish place for a settlement, but he only made it there two days ahead of the next ships.
The memorial is in Sirius Avenue, which is part of the Gunwharf Quays Shopping Centre (see the map up above). To reiterate, at the time of writing (2015) Sirius Avenue isn't an official street, and isn't listed in street directories or maps, nor on Google Maps.
This wonderful memorial, a copy of the one at Ku-Ring-Gai National Park, just outside Sydney, was sculpted by Victor Cusack. The close-up detail is extraordinary. Sadly, this brave little former coal hauler was later wrecked trying to make a landing on Norfolk Island. Between the First Fleet and her wrecking she and her crew saved the convict settlement from starvation by fetching supplies from South Africa.
The memorial is in Sirius Avenue, which is part of the Gunwharf Quays Shopping Centre (see the map up above). To reiterate, at the time of writing (2015) Sirius Avenue isn't an official street, and isn't listed in street directories or maps, nor on Google Maps.
This wonderful memorial, a copy of the one at Ku-Ring-Gai National Park, just outside Sydney, was sculpted by Victor Cusack. The close-up detail is extraordinary. Sadly, this brave little former coal hauler was later wrecked trying to make a landing on Norfolk Island. Between the First Fleet and her wrecking she and her crew saved the convict settlement from starvation by fetching supplies from South Africa.
Isle of Wight HMS Sirius Memorial
If you happen to be going this way while you're in the Portsmouth area, there is another memorial on the Isle of Wight side of Spithead, at a place called Appley Tower, Ryde. It was sculpted by Alex Kolozsy.
Your best bet from Portsmouth if you have a car is a ferry to Fishbourne, which you can see on the map below is quite close to Ryde. If you're on foot or bicycle, you can go direct to Ryde. In either case there are heaps of ferries every day, and the trip is only 22 minutes (or so!).
At the time of writing (12/2018) the cost to Fishbourne was around £57 return for two people in a car, around 45 minutes each way. For pedestrians to Ryde, the cost is around £40 return, around 22 minutes each way. Anywhere near peak season or a holiday weekend or the like you will need to book well in advance. There are a number of websites you can check out to arrange a ferry well ahead of time, the following is just one (note, we are not recommending this mob, have no relationship of any kind with them, nor know whether or not they're any good): http://www.ferries.co.uk/
Your best bet from Portsmouth if you have a car is a ferry to Fishbourne, which you can see on the map below is quite close to Ryde. If you're on foot or bicycle, you can go direct to Ryde. In either case there are heaps of ferries every day, and the trip is only 22 minutes (or so!).
At the time of writing (12/2018) the cost to Fishbourne was around £57 return for two people in a car, around 45 minutes each way. For pedestrians to Ryde, the cost is around £40 return, around 22 minutes each way. Anywhere near peak season or a holiday weekend or the like you will need to book well in advance. There are a number of websites you can check out to arrange a ferry well ahead of time, the following is just one (note, we are not recommending this mob, have no relationship of any kind with them, nor know whether or not they're any good): http://www.ferries.co.uk/